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How to Choose a Gemstone

The "Four Cs" are the universal criteria used by gemologists and collectors worldwide to evaluate the quality and value of colored gemstones.

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Color

The most important factor for colored gemstones. Color is evaluated by three components:

  • Hue — the primary color (red, blue, green, etc.)
  • Saturation — the intensity and vividness of color
  • Tone — how light or dark the color appears
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Clarity

Refers to the presence of inclusions (internal) and blemishes (external). Colored stones are graded differently from diamonds:

  • Eye-clean — no visible inclusions to naked eye
  • Slightly included — minor inclusions visible under 10x
  • Included — visible inclusions that may affect beauty
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Cut

The quality of cut determines how well the stone reflects light and displays its color. Key factors include:

  • Proportions — symmetry and balance of facets
  • Polish — smoothness of faceted surfaces
  • Windowing — avoid stones with see-through center
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Carat Weight

Weight is measured in carats (1 carat = 0.2 grams). Larger stones are exponentially rarer:

  • Price per carat — increases dramatically with size
  • Visual size — depends on density (ruby looks smaller than aquamarine at same weight)
  • Sweet spots — just under round numbers can offer better value

Expert Tip: For colored gemstones, color is king. A well-saturated stone with minor inclusions will almost always be more valuable than a perfectly clean stone with pale color. Always prioritize vivid, saturated color when making your choice.

Popular Cut Types

The cut shape affects how a gemstone interacts with light and reveals its color. Each shape has its own character.

Round Brilliant

Maximum sparkle, 57 facets

Emerald

Step-cut, elegant clarity

Oval

Elongated brilliance

Cushion

Soft corners, vintage feel

Pear

Teardrop, dramatic look

Trillion

Triangular, bold fire

Marquise

Boat-shaped, looks larger

Heart

Romantic, rare in gems

Asscher

Square step-cut, art deco

Cabochon

Domed, no facets, smooth

Gemstone Encyclopedia

Click on any gemstone to explore its characteristics, origins, and what to look for when buying.

Emerald

7.5–8 Mohs
OriginColombia, Zambia, Brazil, Afghanistan, Pakistan
Color RangeGreen to bluish-green
Price Range$500 – $50,000+/ct
BirthstoneMay

The most prized of the beryl family. Colombian emeralds command the highest prices for their warm, vivid green. Minor oil treatment is standard and accepted in the trade.

Browse Emeralds →

Ruby

9 Mohs
OriginMyanmar, Mozambique, Sri Lanka
Color RangePinkish-red to deep red
Price Range$1,000 – $100,000+/ct
BirthstoneJuly

"Pigeon Blood" Burmese rubies are the most valuable colored gemstones in the world. Second hardest natural gem after diamond. Untreated specimens command extraordinary premiums.

Browse Rubies →

Sapphire

9 Mohs
OriginKashmir, Sri Lanka, Madagascar
Color RangeBlue, pink, yellow, padparadscha
Price Range$500 – $80,000+/ct
BirthstoneSeptember

Kashmir sapphires are the gold standard — velvety blue with a soft, luminous quality. Sapphires come in every color except red (which would be ruby). Padparadscha is the rarest fancy sapphire.

Browse Sapphires →

Spinel

8 Mohs
OriginMyanmar, Sri Lanka, Tanzania
Color RangeRed, pink, blue, lavender
Price Range$200 – $30,000+/ct
BirthstoneAugust

Historically confused with ruby, spinel is now recognized as a prized gem in its own right. Never treated — all color is natural. The "Black Prince's Ruby" in the British Crown is actually a spinel.

Browse Spinels →

Paraiba Tourmaline

7–7.5 Mohs
OriginBrazil, Mozambique, Nigeria
Color RangeNeon blue, electric green
Price Range$2,000 – $80,000+/ct
BirthstoneOctober

The "neon" gemstone. Copper content gives Paraiba its unmistakable electric glow. Brazilian specimens from the original Paraiba mine are the most valuable colored gems per carat after rubies.

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Alexandrite

8.5 Mohs
OriginRussia, Brazil, Sri Lanka
Color RangeGreen in daylight → red in incandescent
Price Range$5,000 – $70,000+/ct
BirthstoneJune

"Emerald by day, ruby by night." One of the rarest gemstones in existence. Strong color change specimens from Russia command the highest prices. A true collector's stone.

Browse Alexandrites →

Morganite

7.5–8 Mohs
OriginBrazil, Madagascar, Afghanistan
Color RangePink, peach, salmon
Price Range$50 – $500+/ct
Birthstone

The pink variety of beryl (same family as emerald). Its warm, romantic tones make it extremely popular for engagement rings. Large clean specimens are relatively affordable compared to other precious gems.

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Tanzanite

6.5–7 Mohs
OriginTanzania (only source)
Color RangeViolet-blue, purplish-blue
Price Range$200 – $3,000+/ct
BirthstoneDecember

Found in only one place on Earth — near Mount Kilimanjaro. Geologists estimate the supply may be exhausted within 20–30 years, making it a potential investment gem. Strong trichroism shows blue, violet, and burgundy.

Browse Tanzanites →

Mohs Hardness Scale

Hardness determines a gemstone's durability for everyday wear. Higher number = more scratch-resistant.

1TalcSoftest
2GypsumFingernail
3CalciteCoin
4FluoriteKnife
5ApatiteGlass
6FeldsparSteel file
7QuartzTourmaline
8TopazSpinel
9CorundumRuby, Sapphire
10DiamondHardest
Soft (1–4) — not for jewelry
Medium (5–6) — earrings, pendants
Hard (7–8) — all jewelry types
Very hard (9–10) — daily wear rings

Practical Tip: For engagement rings and jewelry worn daily, choose gemstones with hardness 7 or above. Stones below 7 (like tanzanite, opal) are better suited for earrings and pendants where they'll receive less impact.